The switch is on
A switch seems simple enough: You flick it one way to go
on and the other way to go off. However, understanding what’s happening
behind that switch requires that we give you a bit of background.
Open:
A switch is in an
open
state when there is no electrical
connection. When switch is open, there is very high resistance
between a wire coming into a switch and the wire going out of the
switch.
Closed:
A switch is
closed
when there is an electrical
connection. When a switch is closed, there is very low resistance between
a wire coming into a switch and the wire going out of the switch.
There are different kinds of switches, referred to as
SPST, SPDT, and DPDT, as shown in Figure 3-7. Here’s what these catchy acronyms
mean:
SPST
(single-pole, single-throw):
This kind of switch has two lugs
to which you can solder wires. When the switch is on, the
two wires are connected; when the switch is off, the two wires are
disconnected. We like SPST switches so much that we use them as on/off
switches in every project in this session.
SPDT
(single-pole, double-throw):
This kind of switch has three lugs to which you can solder wires: one for an incoming wire
and two for outgoing wires. When the switch is in one position, the
incoming wire is connected to the first of the outgoing wires. When the
switch is in the other position, the incoming wire is connected to the
second of the outgoing wires. (If you have a different need and this is the
type of switch you happen to have in your parts bin, you can use just
two lugs to make it work as an SPST.)
DPDT
(double-pole, double-throw):
This kind of switch has six lugs
to which you can solder wires. These lugs can be attached
to two incoming wires and four outgoing wires. When you flip this
switch, you simply switch each incoming wire between two of the outgoing
wires. We use this type of switch in a relay in "Sensetive Sam Walks the
Line" project to switch
control of the motors from one type of sensor to another.

As if switches didn’t have enough names, they are also
referred to by the method used to change their state from open to closed.
See Figure 3-8 to see the different types.
Toggle
switch:
This switch
gets its name from the fact that you flip a lever to turn it on and flip it back to turn it off.
Pushbutton on/off switch:
Every time you push this button,
it changes from on to off or vice versa.
Momentary pushbutton switch:
Pushing this switch is what
changes its state, but only for the moment! These are also
classified by whether they are normally open
(NO)
or normally closed
(NC).
For example, a momentary normally open switch is closed only while you hold the
pushbutton down. When you release the button, it goes back to its
normal — open — state.
Tactile
switch:
This is a type
of momentary pushbutton switch. Tactile switches are rated by the amount of force that is needed
to push the button and are often flat so that they can be easily
inserted somewhere without protruding (like how we insert them into the
hands of a puppet in "Murmuring Merlin" project).
Slide
switch:
Logically, this
switch operates when you slide a knob to change it from on to off or vice versa.
Relays:
These
switches are operated by a voltage rather than by pushing a switch. This
makes them very useful for turning on or off a component, such as a
light or motor, through a remote control or by voltage generated by a
sensor. We control relays with both methods in
"Sensetive Sam Walks
the Line" project

Sensors
Sensors
take energy in forms such as sound
or light and transform that energy into a signal. By using a sensor, you can detect
heat, light, and sound, for example. When a signal is sensed, to the sensor
produces an electrical signal that is used by your circuit to control some
activity. For example, an infrared detector can work in conjunction with an
infrared remote control device to stop or start a little go-kart.
Here are a few types of sensors that we use in the
projects in this part of the web site:
IR
detector:
This converts
infrared (IR) light into an electric signal. The version that we use in Chapters 11 and 9 contains a
photodiode that detects infrared light and an integrated circuit that
produces either +V or 0 volts on its output pin. In order to reduce noise
from ambient IR light, this detector is designed to only respond to IR
light that is pulsed at 38 kHz.
Tilt/vibration sensor:
This type of sensor (which we use in "Couch Pet-Ato project) detects motion or vibrations when the switch is mounted
with the body of the sensor horizontal. When the sensor detects
motion, it closes a switch, just like a toggle switch works.
Microphones
Technically speaking, a microphone is a kind of sensor.
However, there’s a lot to say about these sound-sensing devices, so we give
microphones their own section.
How condenser (capacitor) microphones work
Capacitors are kind of like a voltage sandwich in that
they have two plates, with a slab of voltage between them. A so-called
condenser mike
(also called a
capacitor microphone)
contains one plate made of a very light material that acts as a diaphragm. This plate vibrates when sound
waves hit it. This moves the two plates apart, which changes
capacitance
(the ability to store electrons). Moving the plates farther apart decreases capacitance
(discharging current), and moving them together increases capacitance
(charging current). Condenser microphones aren’t cheap, but they give
high-quality sound, so they are often the best choice for an audio-intensive
project.
A better mousetrap: Electret capacitor microphones
Today, the most popular type of condenser microphone is
the
electret
microphone (which gets its name from the combination of
electrostatic
and magnet),
invented in 1962. The electret material used in this
type of microphone is made by embedding a permanent charge in a material called a
dielectric.
A charge is embedded in a dielectric by aligning the charges in the
material — sort of like how you make a magnet by aligning the atoms in a piece
of iron. There is a preamplifier in an electret microphone, to
which you provide a supply voltage. That’s why the projects in this book
that use electret microphones have a connection through a resistor running between the
plus (+) lead of the microphone and the +V bus to power the
preamplifier. (The resistor reduces the voltage at the + lead of the microphone to
the desired supply voltage.)
Size counts
When you order electret microphones, pay attention to
the diameter and thickness because some can be hard to handle and solder.
For most of our projects in this book, we use microphones with a
diameter of about 3⁄8"
and a thickness of about 2⁄10".
A microphone cartridge with a diameter of about 1⁄4" and a thickness of about 1⁄10"
turns out to be much harder to handle and solder to than a microphone cartridge of about 3⁄8"
and a thickness of about 2⁄10".
(Check out Chapter 6, where we bit the bullet and used a small
microphone cartridge because that project needed some of the capabilities we
couldn’t find in a larger microphone cartridge.) Many microphone cartridge sizes are specified in
millimeters. To help you translate this, typical diameters of microphone casings
are 6 mm (about 1⁄4") and 9.7 mm (about 3⁄8").
Measuring sensitivity
Sensitivity is another issue that you should pay
attention to with microphone cartridges. Sensitivity is measured in decibels (dB) —
and just to confuse you, this measurement is given as a negative number. A
microphone cartridge with a sensitivity of –40 dB, for example, is more
sensitive
(provides higher voltage at a given level of sound) than a microphone
cartridge with a sensitivity of –60. For example, for the project in Chapter 6 (which has to
pick up very faint sounds as part of a parabolic microphone), you need a
highly sensitive microphone cartridge. We use one with a sensitivity of
–35 dB. In Chapter 14, in which you talk directly into the microphone to record
a message, we use a less-sensitive microphone cartridge, rated at –64 dB.
Connecting your microphone cartridge to your project
To connect electret microphone cartridges to your
project, you can get electret microphone cartridges with solder pads or with leads
that you can insert into a breadboard. We use both in our projects.
Let there be light: Light emitting diodes
A
diode
sends out light
when you pass an electric current through it. LEDs, which we use quite a bit in the projects in this book,
are similar to the tiny, twinkly lights you use to decorate a Christmas tree, and
they come in a variety of colors, such as red, orange, yellow, green, blue, and
white. Blue and white LEDs are a lot more expensive, so you don’t see
them used that often in this part of web site. (We’re thrifty!)
LED color isn’t controlled by the plastic that surrounds
the light. Rather, the semiconductor material used in the LED determines the
color. The plastic surrounding the semiconductor material can be clear or
treated so that it diffuses the light. In addition, you can get LEDs in several sizes and
shapes. The standard LED, which is a cylinder with a diameter of 5mm, is referred
to as
T-1 3⁄4.
If you don’t connect LEDs the right way, you could wait
forever to see the light. Connect the longer of the two leads to the
positive voltage and the shorter of the two leads to ground or the more negative
voltage.
Speaking up about speakers
Everybody knows what a speaker is: There’s one on your
DVD player, your computer, your iPod — you name it! Most speakers contain
a permanent magnet, an electromagnet, and a cone-shaped device from
which the sounds emerge (see Figure 3-9).

When current moves through the electromagnet, which is
attached to the cone, it gets pushed toward or pulled away from the
permanent magnet. This depends on which way the electric current is moving.
This movement of the electromagnet is what makes the cone vibrate, and that
produces sound waves. Speakers come with a rated
impedance
(the degree to which a component resists electrical current): for example, 4 ohm, 8 ohm,
16 ohm, or 32 ohm. A speaker is often referred to by its impedance: for
example, “I’m going out to buy an 8 ohm speaker.” When you use a speaker in a
circuit, it should have an impedance rating that matches the minimum impedance
rating that the amplifier hooked up to the speaker can drive. If you use a speaker
with higher impedance than the amplifier can drive, you won’t get
the maximum amount of sound; conversely, if you use a speaker with lower
impedance than the amplifier can drive, you might overheat the amplifier.
You can find this rating in the datasheet on your supplier’s Web site.
For example, in "Surfing the
Airwaves" project, we use an 8 ohm speaker
because the LM386 amplifier can drive a speaker with impedance as low as 8
ohms. And in Chapter 14, we use a 16 ohm speaker because the ISD1110
voice record/ playback chip can drive a speaker with impedance as low
as 16 ohms.
Speakers also come with a power rating, such as 0.2
watt, 1 watt, or 2 watt. Choose a speaker with at least as high of a power rating
as the maximum output of the amplifier. Again, you can find this
maximum output in the amplifier datasheet.
When you buy a speaker for electronics projects, buy one
that comes with convenient holes in the corners of metal or plastic
flanges that you can slip screws through. These help you to easily attach the
speaker to the box you’re putting the circuit in. See "Discovering
schematics" for more
about building and assembling projects.
Buzzers
If you have an annoying friend who plays practical
jokes, you’ve probably been on the receiving end of the buzzer and handshake
joke. A
buzzer
essentially generates a sound, which you can use in projects in a
variety of ways. For example, a buzzer could be the horn on a remote
controlled car or an alarm that goes off when a sensor detects motion. In a buzzer, you apply voltage to a crystal (a
piezoelectric
crystal), which then expands or contracts. By attaching a diaphragm to the
crystal, you cause the diaphragm to vibrate when you change the voltage. This
vibration causes that
bzzz
sound. There are electromagnet buzzers, but the piezo buzzer works just fine for electronic projects, so we stick to using them
in this part of web site.
Most buzzers give off sound in the 2–4 kHz range.
Buzzers aren’t very discriminating when it comes to voltage: Their ratings are approximate,
meaning that a 12V buzzer is absolutely happy to work with a 9V
power supply. Buzzers have two leads, and you have to connect a
buzzers the right way round. The red lead is always positive (+).