Building a Directional Tin Can Antenna
In Chapter 1, you learned
how to make a Wi-Fi antenna cable that can be used to connect an
external antenna to your Wi-Fi card or
access point. It is now time to build an antenna and put
the cable from Chapter 1 to good
use.While there are many commercial antennas available on the
market today, they can be expensive. And hey, let’s face
it, attaching a commercial antenna to your Wi-Fi network
will not turn heads like making
your own will.
There are several different types of antennas
that you can build. The most famous Wi-Fi antennas are made from
either a coffee can or a Pringles potato chip can. In this
chapter, you will learn how to build your own antenna from a
regular, metal coffee can. You will be able to build it quickly
and cheaply. As an added bonus, you will have lots of coffee,
which will come in handy in staying awake for the other projects
in this book.
Here are the items you will need for this
chapter’s project:
➤
The
coaxial cable you built in Chapter 1
➤
Metal
can about 4 inches in diameter and 51⁄2
inches long
(100 mm–135 mm)
➤
Type
N-Connector
➤
Long-nosed
pliers
➤
Small
wire cutters
➤
Single-sided
razor blade
➤
Scissors
➤
Hammer
➤
Drill
➤
Soldering
iron and solder
➤
Copper
embossing material (optional)
Types of Can Antennas
There are two popular types of homebrew Wi-Fi
can antennas, the Pringles can antenna and the tin can antenna.
They both have the same means to an end—increase signal strength
in one direction—but they differ radically in operation and
construction. The Pringles can antenna is actually a Yagi
antenna with a Pringles can covering used to mount the antenna
components. You may recall from Chapter 2 that a Yagi antenna
uses a single element as a radiator, with additional metallic
elements. A single reflector element and multiple director
elements help to shape the beam into a directional pattern.
In fact, the Pringles can isn’t really a can,
it’s just a cylindrical cardboard container. Figure 3-1 shows
the internal components of the Pringles can antenna. The primary
components are the radiator and the beam-shaping elements. All
other components serve to hold the antenna together in the
correct position for best efficiency.
While the Pringles can is merely a shell, the
tin can is the actual antenna on a tin can antenna. This is
because the tin can antenna is a “waveguide” antenna (see Figure
3-2). That is, the size, shape, and electrical conductivity of
the tin can act upon the radio frequency signals.When you place
a small radiator in the right location, the dimensions of the
can itself will shape the beam and light up the sky.


A
waveguide is a
type of radio frequency (RF) transmission path. Where
low-frequency systems can use
copper wires, like that used in your car radio, high-frequency
RF will sometimes use waveguides to
route high-power, high-frequency signals. Military radar systems
often use waveguide transmission
lines.
Understanding Waveguides
A waveguide is a type of transmission line, like
coaxial cable (see Figure 3-3). But, unlike coaxial cables,
waveguides can carry microwave frequencies with almost no loss.
RF energy as high as 60 GHz or higher travel easily through a
waveguide conduit. A waveguide is constructed from metal in a
very specific size and shape, usually rectangular. It is also
very costly to manufacture, install, and can be difficult to
maintain. Because it’s made from metal, and must be of exact
dimensions, waveguide transmission lines are very rigid.
Waveguides exploit a very interesting aspect of
electromagnetic RF energy: The duality of electromagnetism.
Electromagnetic energy is composed of an electric field and a
magnetic field (hence the name). In a coaxial wire, these fields
are present along the center conductor and reflected from the
outer shield. In a waveguide, these two fields travel along the
waveguid
e

without the need for a center conductor. The
inner surface of the waveguide essentially directs the signal
through the empty space of the interior itself. Waveguide theory
breaks apart all of the elements of radio frequency
transmission. The details are quite complicated and can fill
volumes. For this book, the important thing to note about
waveguides is that size and shape of the waveguide itself is
important, and placement of the radiator inside the waveguide is
important.
Constructing a waveguide transmission line is
difficult.To use a waveguide antenna, however, is a snap. You
only need a short portion of the waveguide path to make an
antenna. And Wi-Fi frequencies dictate a size and shape that is
easily available at any grocery store.
Sizing a Waveguide Antenna
As you know, a waveguide needs to be of specific
dimensions. The waveguide antenna, therefore, must be the
correct size for the frequency you are working with. In this
case, you are working with Wi-Fi operating in the 2.4 GHz band.
Let’s size this antenna for the middle of the band at channel 6,
which has a frequency of 2.437 GHz (see the frequencies in Table
1-2 in Chapter 1).With proper construction, this antenna should
operate well across all Wi-Fi frequencies from channels 1 to 14.
To ensure a can that’s sized well, it should follow the
dimensions shown in Figure 3-4
.

The dimensions for the can antenna built in this
chapter are:
Diameter: ideally 100 mm plus or minus 10 percent (90–110 mm)
Length: about 123 mm or a full wavelength, plus or minus 10
percent
Wedge-shaped radiating element: 24 mm (about 1/5 of a
wavelength)
Radiator offset: 27 mm (about 7/32 of a wavelength)
To calculate wavelength, use the formula
wavelength in millimeters = 300 divided by the frequency in
gigahertz. So, the wavelength for channel 6 is 300 / 2.437 = 123
mm.
Finding the Right Can
For this project, you can use just about any
smallish coffee can. There are a couple of things you have to
keep in mind: it has to be a metal can and it should be close to
the dimensions noted in the previous section. Remarkably,
Maxwell House and Folgers Coffee cans are the exact dimensions
needed for this project. The ounces (or grams) measurements vary
somewhat from 11.5 oz. (368 g) to 13 oz. (326 g) because they
are measuring weight. But the can dimensions are identical for
these two brands and probably many more.
To find the right can, go to your local grocery
store with a measuring tape or ruler and measure the cans on the
shelf. The store personnel might look at you funny. Just tell
them you are buying some coffee to make your Internet access go
further.
In choosing your coffee, remember that one can
make many cups of coffee to drink. You really have two choices;
you can dump the coffee or keep a pot of coffee ready at all
times for the other projects in this book. For this chapter, we
used an 11.5 oz. Maxwell House coffee can.
Preparing the Can
It’s time to get the can ready to be converted
into a directional antenna. You can do this in two steps:
preparation and cleaning.
Step 1: Preparing the Can Opening
The coffee can you purchased probably has a
plastic cover on the top and a metal cover protecting the coffee
freshness. Remove the plastic lid and put it aside; you will use
it later. You will also want to make sure that the can itself is
intact with no indentations. Most cans will have ridges around
the circumference of the can which are okay; you just want to
make sure that it has not been dropped or mishandled. These
indentations or dents can affect the efficiency of the can.
The coffee can will be sealed in one of two
ways.With many of the older coffee cans, you needed to open the
can with a can opener and discard the removed lid. If this is
the coffee can you have, make sure that you grind down or file
the inside edge of the can so that it is smooth.

If it’s a newer can, it will have a thick tin
foil covering with a ring to pull the cover off. Simply remove
the cover and discard it.
Step 2: Cleaning the Can
While having coffee grounds in the antenna will
not affect its operation much, it sure can make a mess of
things, so make sure that you clean the can out well. Also make
sure that you clean the opening of any foreign objects, such as
glue, pieces of the original tin or tin foil cover. The coffee
can should now look similar to that shown in Figure 3-5.